THE ISLAND OF MALTA
By Bob Van Leer

  (VALLETTA, MALTA - Saturday, January 6, 2001) - Our cruise ship, Pacific Princess, made its first port of call this morning in Valletta, Malta, an island nation between Italy and Tunisia at the narrow mid-point of the Mediterranean Sea.

  Betty and I took a tour by taxi around the main island. Agriculture is limited by the size of the country, only 122 square miles total. This in one of the most densely populated countries in the world with more than 3000 people per square mile, compared to about 55 per square mile in the U. S. The agricultural fields are outlined by stone fences. Everything is built of rock here as there is plenty of that and no trees.

  We made a few sight-seeing tourist stops at the Medina (the old city), San Anton Gardens and Mosta Cathedral. The cathedral has a magnificent dome that was penetrated by a bomb in 1942 when the island was under siege by Germany and Italy. The bomb landed on the church floor where 300 people are attending a church service, but no on was injured. Our taxi driver said it was a miracle that the bomb did not explode, which would have destroyed the church. A replica of the bomb is on display in a side room.

  The climate is rather like southern California. With more that 380,000 residents in this tiny country, something besides farming is needed to support the population, and tourism is a big part of it.

  Malta was ruled by the British for 150 years until granted independence in 1964. These islands have been a trading spot since the beginning of time and some stone age remnants on the south coast may be 7000 years old.

  One of the most interesting periods for Malta began in 1523 when the islands were ceded to Spain to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. These Knights were driven out of Jerusalem by the Turks and settled on Malta. For the next 275 years these "Knights of Malta" made the island their kingdom and built towns, palaces, churches, gardens and embellished the islands with works of art and culture. Their rule was ended by their surrender to Napoleon in 1798.

  We had been at sea the past two days on a transit from Istanbul. The first day at sea was smooth as glass, but yesterday it roughened up with swells I would estimate at 10 feet or more. This is a rather small ship and it has a considerable roll in those seas. A number of passengers were showing signs of sea sickness. I asked the officer in charge of breakfast serving, and he said the number of those showing up for breakfast was down about 20%. There are more among the passengers than I would have guessed. Two of our table mates for dinner are from Salem. He is a retired highway engineer. We met a teacher from Portland and two other Oregonians.

  There are a total of 569 passengers aboard, of which 456 are from the U. S. Another 69 are from Canada and the rest are mostly from Europe with 11 from Mexico and one from South Africa.

  We sail at 5:00 p.m. for La Goulette, Tunisia, 232 nautical miles away, our first stop in Africa.