By Bob Van Leer

  (MAYOTTE, COMOROS, Indian Ocean, Feb. 14, 1995) - Our ship anchored this morning at Mayotte, the Comoro island still under French administration. Mayotte is the most developed of the islands and has the distinct character of a French colony. Mayotte chose to remain under French rule and is still subsidized by the French and is the most prosperous of the Comoros.

   Mayotte actually consists of two islands, the larger La Grande Terre and La Petite Terre. The population is about 70,000 and half are under 20 years.
The French administrative center, including a contingent of the Foreign Legion, is on the smaller island, a 15 minute ferry ride from the large island.

  Communication with the islanders is difficult for most of us. The exception is four Canadians who are fluent in French. These islands are not on the normal tourist itineraries and not many facilities cater to the tourists.

  The market area on Mayotte is a colorful jumble of sights, sounds and smells. Baskets of charcoal are piled high and stalls feature bananas, mangoes, bundles of cinnamon bark, squash, peppers, breadfruit and other exotics. But everything goes into the same kind of plastic bag we use at home.

  A lot of clothing is displayed and kerosene burners are on sale at many stalls. There were a lot of aluminum pots on display in sizes up to about five gallons. Few tourist-type of goods are on display. One of the passengers from our ship commented, This market is for them - not us".

  The weather was bright, steamy and muggy. The combination sucks all the energy out of a person. It is easy to see why things don't get done in the tropics. About every other market stall has someone sleeping in it.

  I met a white haired, white bearded expatriate who said he was originally from Holland. He had been in South Africa and the former Rhodesia and wound up in Mayotte, where his children started school. He said he remained there for his kids to go to school, but now they are grown and gone. He said he is going to move, but he can't go home anymore. He has lived in Africa and nearby too long - can't stand the cold. He said Madagascar is a likely possibility.

  After several hours downtown, we beat a retreat to our air-conditioned ship for lunch and to cool off. The locals don't have that option.

  Our ship is anchored between the two islands and the ship's 33 passenger launch ferries passengers to and from town. The launch is able to land at a dock so we have a "dry" landing. Tonight our ship weighs anchor for Madagascar where the landings will be "wet".