By Bob Van Leer

  (ANJOUAN, COMORO ISLANDS, Indian Ocean, Feb. 13, 1995) - Anjouan has all the outward appearance of a tropical paradise. It is a high, volcanic island covered with lush vegetation including banana plants and swaying palm trees.

  But the island has a rapidly expanding population trying, with limited success, to adjust to the last half of the 20th century. We took a tour of the island on "bush taxi". The taxi is a compact pickup with a canvas cover and fitted with board benches in the bed. The taxi seats eight, but not very comfortably.

  Roads are narrow and winding. The island is volcanic, rising to a peak of 1600 meters. Anjouan is said to be the most beautiful of the four Comoro Islands which lie between Mozambique, on the African mainland, and Madagascar. Sheer peaks rise up alongside steep valleys with trees clinging to the near-vertical faces.

  From an environmental standpoint, Anjouan is the most degraded of the islands. An overpopulation of 140,000 people on just 424 square kilometers has led to clearing the land for extensive farming and during the rainy season the soil is washed away to sea, turning the water red and killing the coral reef offshore.

  We had a demonstration of this as we were caught in a tropical downpour during our tour and water at the beaches turned red. Our guide, Daniel, said he has 20 brothers. His father has four wives. This is primarily a Muslim country. We arrived during the month of Ramadan. Muslims over 15 years, are not permitted to eat or drink anything from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. And there are restrictions on the off hours also.

  Our ship's guide, Midge, said Anjouan women often get married at 14 or 15 and have an average of 12 children. There are not enough jobs for that many people. Daniel said 70% of the men are unemployed. Per capita income annually is $488. The few exports include essence of ylang-ylang,a flower, used in manufacturing perfume, of which Comoros is the world's leading producer, and vanilla, cloves and copra. Adult men try to migrate to Mayotte, the most developed of the islands, but politics enters in.

FRENCH CONTROL

  Comoros came under French control between 1841 and 1912. In 1975 the Comorian parliament passed a resolution declaring unilateral independence and became the Federal Islamic Republic of Comoros. Mayotte abstained and remains under French rule. Ahmed Abdallah was designated president. But after barely a month in office, he was overthrown by foreign mercenaries and Ali Solih was installed as president.

  A second attack in 1978 by French mercenaries (estimates range from 29 to 50)under Bob Denard restored Abdallah to power and Solih was killed. In 1989, Abdallah was also killed, probably by mercenaries in his presidential guard. Since 1990, Comoros has had an elected president. This political turmoil did little to improve what was already a shaky economy.

  Anjouan men trying to find work in Mayotte are limited by the French to a 90 day stay. The Comoros government feels Comorans should be able to move freely among all the islands and, just in recent weeks, refused permission for French planes to land on its airports.

  The only really well-kept buildings we saw on the island were the palace and tomb of the assassinated Abdallah. Anjouan is far off the beaten tourist track. Only in the 1990s was a deep water harbor constructed that allows small cruise ships, such as ours, to dock.

  Several outrigger dugout canoes hovered around our ship with the boaters trying to sell sea shells to passengers. The natives in the canoes followed us from their boats to the dock and up on the dock. They looked so desperate Betty said, "Buy something from them". So we have some shells. They're so poor you feel too guilty to try to bargain them down.

  Children all through the island waved frantically at our taxi and were disappointed if there was no return wave. And this island is thick with children. Michael Seltzer, our tour director, said 70% of the island population is under 25 years of age. These children will soon be adults and waving at the few tourists is not going to satisfy them.

  One curious custom is many women paint their faces white and look as if they were wearing a mask. Daniel said the white is from a root and the painting is done as protection against the sun and for beauty (which is always in the eye of the beholder).

  Comoros received support during the Cold War from France, South Africa and the USSR. But these international conflicts have been resolved and nobody seems to care about Comoros any more. The situation here is plainly unresolved.

  Tomorrow we are going to Mayotte which is only 62 nautical miles away.