OUR POUSADA OVERLOOKS DAM AND LAKE

By Bob Van Leer

  (SANTA CLARA A VELHA, PORTUGAL, July 8, 1992) - Again we were staying at one of the government-run pousadas, this time the Pousada de Santa Clara.

  It overlooks the Santa Clara dam which backs up a huge lake. The engineers who built the dam occupied the pousada but it was obviously built for later use as a hotel.

  It is small, with only six rooms. Our party of six took up half the hotel. We arrived here after a drive from San Bras, first west along the coast and then north.

  The terrain is such that the main road does not run in sight of the ocean, it is necessary to make a short drive south on connecting roads to get to the beach.

  We tried to reach one beach that was the site of a craft fair but traffic was impossible. We couldn't find a parking space within a mile and gave it up.

Mountain Road

  After leaving the main road, we drove north on a secondary road to Santa Clara through the Monchique Mountains. The highest peak appears to be only 902 meters.

  The road is narrow, poorly maintained, and one continuous series of curves with long drop-offs on the low side of the road.

  Much of the pavement drives as if the road hadn't been maintained in the past 20 years. Through the mountains it was a 25 m.p.h. show.

Reforestation

   The mountains are one big reforestation project. The mountains are as steep as those at home. But nearly all have been terraced and planted with eucalyptus.

  Jim and Molly went for a six mile hike around the lake after we checked in while myself, Betty and grandsons Chris and Rob, visited the tiny town of Santa Clara.

  Jim and Molly reported an abundance of hiking trails, well laid out. They appreciated the scenery with Jim particularly appreciating the sight of two young ladies swimming and sunning themselves in the buff.

  The town center is a small, old church undergoing renovation. Streets are narrow, barely wide enough for one car to drive through when another is parked.

  There are two general stores, a dress shop, and at least a half dozen bars with sidewalk tables. All eyes followed us as we strolled around town. There are not many tourists in this tiny town.

Riverside Laundry

  Along what is left of the river after the dam stops the water we found the town's version of a laundromat. Along the stream were stations of flat rocks and behind them community clothes drying lines.

  This is mountain country and we were high on a peak overlooking other mountain ranges fading into the distance.

  It is hot during the day but in the evenings it cools to the 70's.

  We have arranged tomorrow morning for a guide to take us on a boat tour of the lake. After that we will be traveling north to Setubal for our next stop.