By Bob Van Leer

  (ISTANBUL, TURKEY, June 8, 1987) - Today was a day of sightseeing with the standout being a visit to the Covered Bazaar in the old section of Istanbul. There are some 4000 tiny shops in a covered rabbit warren of some 70 acres. It is a fascinating maze of crowded streets and alleys.

  Thousands of people fill these streets in a never-ending stream and a constant barrage of noise in a dozen languages assaults the ears. In addition to the shops, there are hundreds of peddlers roaming the streets with T-shirts, belts, candy and other goods. These are thrust into your face and the persistent peddlers won't accept a turndown easily. They follow you, lowering the price with every step. Haggling over price is expected here.

  On display are Turkish rugs, copper, fabrics, ceramics and a thousand other Turkish crafts alongside machine-made imitations. This is a place that lives up to expectations.

  We were given a showing of Turkish rugs; good, but not cheap. We were told that most are made by girls, 15-20 years old, and even a small rug takes months to make. A 4 x 5 ft. rug on the low-priced end is priced at $420.00 in U.S. dollars and a 5 x 7 ft. for $1300.00

  Before shopping we visited the Topkapi Palace overlooking the Bosphorus and The Golden Horn. Old Istanbul is built on a peninsula made by The Golden Horn, a horn-shaped inlet that provides a safe anchorage from the currents of the Bosphorus. It can dominate the entrance to the narrow strait and is easily fortified.

  The Topkapi was the palace of the sultans of the Ottoman Empire from the 15th to the 19th century. It included the sultan's harem, a library, and the imperial treasury. The treasury contains a stunning collection of jewels including a dagger with a handle made of solid emerald and the 84 carat Spoonmaker diamond. From the palace we went to the Sultan Ahmet Mosque, the famous "Blue Mosque" named because of the interior decoration of blue tiles.

  Some observations so far: many of the very old buildings downtown are wood but our guide says there are no new ones because of the cost of insurance. Our guide says this is because "we have a lot of borders". This morning we saw a man leading a bear on a leash, like an overgrown dog through the park.

  In the bazaar there is no room for vehicles and freight is handled by human mules. They even have specially built pack saddles.

  Tomorrow we leave Istanbul, reluctantly, for a flight to Ankara and briefings by the U.S. Ambassador and Turkish officials. Istanbul is a fascinating city and we wish we had more time to spend here.